Crookedness after washing according to ISO 16322-3

Part 3: Woven and knitted garments
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ISO 16322-3

Principle

In this test we evaluate the angular distortion or crookedness (spirality or torque of woven and knitted garments) that occurs in textile fabrics after subjecting them to a standardized washing procedure. Crookedness refers specifically to the misalignment of weft or filling yarns from their intended perpendicular orientation to the warp or lengthwise direction. This misalignment can occur due to differential shrinkage, fabric construction imbalances, or finishing processes. 

ISO 16322-3 addresses this by quantifying the change in fabric geometry after washing and drying.

Testing Method

The testing procedure under ISO 16322-3 is designed to simulate domestic or commercial laundering conditions in a controlled laboratory environment. Typically, a fabric specimen of a defined size and marked with reference lines is subjected to a specified number of wash and dry cycles using a particular washing machine type and detergent.

After washing and drying, the fabric is laid flat without tension. The alignment of the weft threads relative to a reference line (usually parallel to the warp) is examined. Crookedness is quantified by measuring the angular deviation of the weft yarns across the width of the fabric. This is usually expressed in degrees or percentage of deviation from a baseline.

ISO 16322-3 provides different procedures depending on the type of washing equipment (e.g., front-loading or top-loading machines) and the drying method (e.g., line drying or tumble drying), reflecting typical real-world laundering practices.

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Applications

This test is widely used in the textile and apparel industry, especially for quality control and product development. Applications include:

  • Garment manufacturing: To ensure that fabrics used in clothing retain their intended structure and appearance after laundering.
  • Home textiles: For evaluating the durability of items like bed linens, curtains, or upholstery fabrics.
  • Textile certification and compliance: To meet customer and regulatory standards, especially in international trade.
  • Consumer assurance: Providing data on dimensional stability and appearance retention, which are critical for end-user satisfaction.

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